ASCENT OF THE NORTH USHBA

Ushba
Активный тур
Region: 
Difficulty: 
Сложный
Price: 
2400€/4400€
Duration: 
14 days
Trip format: 
Alpinist ascent by 4A difficulty route, overnight stays in guesthouses and tents, special training required

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Ushba is a mountain covered with legends. It is a claim to fame of alpinism masters, a dream of many serious climbers.

Once in the mountaineering world, starting to make ascents, sooner or later you will hear this word. It is often aspirated as if spoken about some distant and almost unrealizable dream. And yes, there is a reason. The mount rises above the Greater Caucasus Range for hundreds of meters, and it there is no simple route to climb it. Only those alpinists who have devoted many years to mountains can afford this ascent. In Great Britain, only outstanding climbers were accepted to the “Ushba club”.

Ushba, 4690m, is located in the Greater Caucasus Range, and it is possible to start the ascent both from Russia and Georgia. The latter is more preferred as there are no problems with the border guards and the Ushba icefall, which has recently been impassable in summer. The ascent program is designed for participants with prior experience of climbing Elbrus, Kazbek, Tetnuld, Mont Blanc, Belukha and harder. One should have several such ascents under his or her belt. The ascent of mount Ushba is very difficult and dangerous. Each year the mountain gathers tribute in human lives. In the alpinist table of ranks ascent of Ushba is significant and far more honorable than climbing on Island Peak, Meru Peak, Machu Picchu, Lenin Peak (by the classic route), and others; the prices are similar and less time is allocated. Ushba in the Caucasus is like Mount Everest in Nepal, but mush fewer people have climbed technically difficult Ushba than Everest. You will be proud of this ascent. Deciding to climb Ushba, make sure to use the services of professionals.

Upon receiving your application we will contact you and recommend a training plan. We can refuse to provide you services as a result of your preparedness to the ascent. However, if you have a great desire, we can offer you an individual ascent with two guides.

Our guides have extensive experience of difficult technical ascents. They repeatedly climbed the North and South Ushba, Jangi-Tau, Dykh-Tau, Shkhara, Djigit Peak,…

PLAN OF THE PROGRAM "ASCENT OF THE NORTH USHBA" DAY BY DAY:

Day 1 – meeting in Zugdidi, overnight stop in the hotel,
Day 2 – transfer to Mazeri, taking up residence in a guesthouse, ordering passbooks
Day 3 – ascent to the camp in the pocket of the moraine through the Ushba falls, 2600m, tents,
Day 4 – climbing the moraines and snowfields to the nunatak, 3400m. Rock training, tents,
Day 5 – climbing through the icefall, 2A, to Ushba Pass, 3900m. Building the campground,
Day 6 – training ascent of the Shchurovsky Peak, 2A, 4259m,
Day 7 – rest day,
Day 8 – training ascent of Chatyn, 3A, 4370m or the Western Chatyn,
Day 9 – transfer from the camp to the pillow of Ushba, 4250m, half-rest-day, preparation for the ascent,
Day 10 – ascent of the North Ushba, 4A, 4690m, and return to the camp 4250m,
Day 11 – descent to Hunter’s camp,
Day 12 – descent to Mazeri, departure to Zugdidi,
Day 13, 14 – extra

you should be ready for:
- Ushba is a difficult summit, technically, physically and emotionally. Successful ascent is the result of many factors: your physical and technical preparedness, high-quality equipment, weather conditions and your partner. Good preparedness is more than 50% of success. Having decided to climb you should prepare well; this will greatly increase your chances. You should understand that no one guarantees you a successful ascent, and the ascent itself can be deadly,
- 9-12 days of living in high-altitude conditions,
- the tour is organized in a form of expedition, where the participants arrange their everyday life. Group equipment, food, and cooking duties are equally divided between the participants. The participants put tents and cook themselves,
- the backpack weight is up to 25-29 kg (if you wish, it is possible to carry up a part of food and equipment at extra charge),
- air temperature at more than 3000 m height can fall below 0°C at night,

the price of the tour includes:
- prior consultation,
- guide services,
- transfer Zugdidi-Mazeri- Zugdidi,
- internal transfers,
- living in settlements (Zugdidi, Mazeri, meals – breakfast),
- rent of group and special alpinist equipment (tents, climbing ropes, ice axes, first aid kit, kitchen and navigation tools),
- rent of personal special equipment,
- registration in the control and rescue service and in the border service,
- carrying loads to the border outpost (optionally, only two transfers),
- medical insurance,
- certificate of ascent

the price of the tour doesn't include:
- preliminary meeting or training,
- the cost of transfer from your place of residence to the start point of the program (Zugdidi) and back,
- carrying loads to the plateau (optional),
- food and drinks during transfers, excursions, tasting sessions, Roman baths,…
- visa (Ukrainian and Russian citizens don't need Georgian visa)

How to get to Tbilisi, Batumi, Zugdidi. Reference

Weather and maps: 10-days weather forecast in Mazeri ( http://www.yr.no/sted/Georgia/Megrelia-%C3%98vre_Svanetia/Mazeri/ ), map of Georgia, map of Tbilisi,

Other ascents in Georgia: ascent of mount Kazbek, trekking in the mountains of Georgia, ascent of mount Layla, ascent of mount Tetnuld


- you should pay 700€ prepayment and send scans/copies of tickets to book a place in the tour,
- the price of the tour 2400€/4400€ depends on the level of your preparedness,
- individual dates, trip schedule, and services can be arranged,
- special requirements for participation in the tour: the absence of diseases incompatible with active tourism,
- the guide's decisions during the ascent are final and shall not be discussed. When taking part in the trip you certainly agree with all terms and conditions specified in the tour description,
- please, read the useful information when preparing for the trip

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